Venice Venice Venice

Our readings took us to the Sixteenth century with the anonymous La veniexiana that takes place in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice, near the Istituto Venezia.  In order to enhance our reading experience, we strolled through parts of Dorsoduro to learn more about another quintessentially Venetian phenomenopn, the gondola. We visited the Squero di S. Trovaso, a very authentic gondola workshop/manufacturing spot that dates back to the Seventeenth Century. Maestro Lorenzo enhanced our class lectures with a close up view of the gondola-building and repair processes.

Colin had to get close ...

... but Raelyn's smile seemed to get the best results of all: a gondolier's hat!

Back to Venice

Our return to Venice concentrated first on Piazza San Marco, the Basilica, and the Orologio. From its origins in the early 9th century, the basilica has been an important point of reference for everyone from the early Doges (or 'Doxe', meaning leader) to the current tourists and students.  Once the Venetians stole the relics of St. Mark the Evangelist from Alexandria, effectively replacing the previous Saint Theodore (whose column is in the Piazzetta, next to the Lion of St. Mark), their ascendency to supreme power in the Adriatic began and remained for centuries.  The Basilica's pronounced Byzantine style makes it the most 'eastern' of 'western' churches and perfectly symbolizes Venice as a crossroads between east and west.  The mixture Byzantine, later Medieval and Renaissance styles of Venetian art are eloquently on display in perhaps the most beautiful piazza in all of Europe, St. Mark's Square.

Among the quintessentially Venetian features of our trip, we had a glance at some glasswork. More is on the way, but this was a first taste.

Verona

At the end of week 1, we took the train from Venice to visit the ancient city of Verona which came Roman rule in about 300 BC. This important cultural crossroads which boasts of many beautiful natural features (like the Adige river that crosses it), and man-made creations (like the famous Arena from approximately 30 AD), has a fascinating millennial history.

In order to get some historical background to our readings of Luigi da Porto's and Matteo Bandello's tales of Romeo & Juliet, we visited  Juliet's house.  Although the house is historically that of Juliet, the famous balcony is actually an ancient sarcophagus added last century.  This does not detract at all from the experience; in fact, it enhances it since we realize the levels of 'fiction' that are added to the 'real'.  From da Porto to Shakespeare, the Verona visit enhances the reading experience immensely.

La Regata della Befana

Off to the Rialto Bridge to watch the Regata della Befana -- the gondola race between witches on the Grand Canal.  The 'Canottieri Bucintoro', the oldest rowing club in Venice which dates back to 1882, organize the event by having chosen members dress as the 'befana' and race from S. Toma' to the Rialto Bridge, originally built in wood in 1181 but ultimately replaced by this beautiful stone construction in 1591, designed by Antonio da Ponte.  This historical center of Venice is in many ways the commercial center of the city. It also has what is reputed to be the oldest church in the city, San Giacomo di Rialto, supposedly consecrated around the year 421.  Today the famous Rialto Bridge hosted the 'befana' boat race in which the green witch won.  This is a rare event -- once a year on January 6th at 11:00.

January 6, 2010

In the true spirit of the Epiphany, when 'la befana' fills the stockings of good children with sweets (and puts coal in those of the bad ones), Professor Buranello acts as 'la befana' by bringing 'bussolai' (typical sweets from the island of Burano) to the students. They taste particularly good at 9,00 when you're hungry and sleepy.

January 6, 2010

The 'Orologio' (clock tower) dates from 1496-99 and on most days retains its fame as the first digital clock (from the mid 1800s) though on 6 January it reverts to its ancient form with the Procession of the Magi.  The Magi accompany the arrival of 'la befana', the witch who, according to one version of the Italian legend, helped the Magi locate baby Jesus.  This transformation of the 'Orologio' happens only twice a year so our timing was perfect.

January 4, 2010

The arrivals throughout the day at Marco Polo airport made everyone even hungrier and even more appreciative of a warm meal.  Our inaugural dinner at 'Aciugheta' was just behind St. Mark's basilica, between the two student residences.